The Changing Face Of Fashion - 1940's

Fasion Through The Decades

1940's

The 1940's saw two different styles in women's fashion. From the beginning of world war II in 1939 till the dawn of the New Look in 1947, women's fashion consisted of knee length dressed and shoulder pads, thanks to war time rationing. 

Sportswear became more common and women began to mix separates. 

Home-made jewellery, elaborate curls and bright lipstick made women show there flair and femininity without expense.with jackets shorter the Peplum became immensely popular. clothes were simple and practical but women still managed to look beautiful even during the hardest days of the war.

............

Rationing

^{Clothes rationing came into effect in Britain from 1 June 1941. It lasted until March 1949.
As with food rationing, the main aim of the scheme was to ensure fair shares. But it was also intended to reduce consumer spending, to free up valuable factory space and release workers for vital war industries.
When buying new clothes, the shopper had to hand over coupons with a 'points' value as well as money. Each item of clothing had a points value, usually displayed alongside the price. The more fabric and labour that was needed to produce a garment, the more points required.}

Many women used furnishing fabrics for dressmaking until these too went on the ration. Blackout material, which did not need points, was also sometimes used. Parachute silk was highly prized for underwear, nightclothes and wedding dresses.

The 'Make do and Mend' campaign suggested ways to repair and recycle old clothes, although cheaper clothes inevitably wore out quicker than more expensive better quality clothing. The 'Utility' scheme, launched in 1943, offered a partial solution to this problem by offering consumers a range of well-designed quality and price controlled clothes.

...........

The silhouette

The silhouette in the 40's was practical yet glamorous,shoulders were strong and there was clear waist definition in both casual and more formal wear. Clothing fit closer to the body, in part due to fabric rationing in the war years. The body was not exaggerated by these fashion silhouettes and they worked well with many body types, unlike the boyish figure of the 1920s.

...........

Nylon Stockings!

By the 1940′s, stockings had become an essential part of a woman’s attire. At the time, silk stockings were expensive and didn’t last, neither cotton or wool were dressy, and rayon sagged.

By the end of 1940, 64 million pairs of nylons had been sold. Nylons had affordability, a good fit, good looks, and mass appeal.

A year later, World War II made it near enough impossible to get a hold of the three most common sheer stocking materials – silk, nylon, and rayon. Like a lot of materials, these materials were being used in the war effort. Some women starting wearing socks folded over at the top of the ankle, but a lot of women starting applying leg makeup and would even go so far as drawing a line with an eyebrow pencil down the back of each leg to give the appearance of wearing back seam stockings. 

...........

Utility Clothing

Utility clothing was produced to aid the economy and help the war effort and although not actually being of military manufacture it is arguably getting close to a 'civilian uniform'.

Utility Clothing was introduced towards the end of 1941 by the British government with several purposes in mind.

Raw materials (cloth, wool, leather etc.) were in short supply and had to be conserved. Manufactures needed to become more efficient in their working practices (Much of the skilled labour had left to fight). Clothing prices (which were increasing) needed to be kept down so that the civilian population could afford clothing of a reasonable quality.

The Utility Clothing Scheme in the large part succeeded in these aims. Utility clothing was stamped or labelled with a utility mark (CC41), the two C's looking more like 'Pack Man' figures than letters, in an effort possibly to hide its true meaning i.e. Civilian Clothing 1941.

Utility Jacket

Utility shoes

..........

Factory attire

Silhouettes were austere, but even in suits or factory overalls, curls and bright lipstick kept the look feminine. 

...........

The Changing Face Of Fashion - 1930's

Fashion through the decades 

1930's

In the 1930s, the straight, up and down style was belted again, and lengthened. It began to hug the body. Dresses were cut on the bias so that they fitted to and moved with the body. These designs required very lightweight fabrics such as satins and silks.
Sport dressing became even more popular in the Thirties. Patterned with contrasting yellow and green, the suit has a felt jacket and huge straw hat to match, with huge modern flowers in felt trimming both jacket and hat. These modern motifs were in bright colours.

...........

The Wall Street Crash

The Wall Street Crash, also known as Black Tuesday or the Stock Market Crash, began in late October 1929 and was the most devastating stock market crash in the history of the United States, when taking into consideration the full extent and duration of its fallout. The crash signaled the beginning of the 10-year Great Depression that affected all Western industrialized countries.

The Roaring Twenties, the decade that followed World War I and led to the Crash,was a time of wealth and excess. Building on post-war optimism, many rural Americans migrated to the cities in vast numbers throughout the decade with the hopes of finding a more prosperous life in the ever growing expansion of America's industrial sector.

Crowd gathering on wall street after the crash

The Wall Street crash and the Great Depression would had a strong influence on women's fashion in the 1930s. Because of the need to save money, the average women could no longer buy new clothes every few months. Instead, they had to remake the clothes they already had, reusing any material that was on-hand. Only after clothes had been patched and mended beyond what was reasonable would they consider buying a new dress, or the fabric to sew a new one.

"Renovation helps the nation"

...........

The Wealthy

For the wealthy, or even those who were able to secure full-time work and earn a modest salary during the early 1930s, circumstances for many of them actually improved. Average wages dropped but the cost of living dropped to an even greater extent. This meant that their standards of living actually rose, because they could afford more than before. In response, many of the wealthy men who had business and financial acumen capitalised on the poverty of the less affluent classes. The wealthy did this by purchasing the exceptionally cheap land and homes of those who were no longer able to make their mortgage repayments. For similarly low prices, they also bought businesses and belongings from those who had been forced into bankruptcy. If they were willing to take a risk on the rise of the stock market, some people bought shares when the prices were at all-time lows. Even though the benefits of their purchases were not immediate, if they had enough financial resources at their disposal to keep their assets until the economy improved, these investors reaped the financial benefits.

The Divide

 there was a great deal of tension between the wealthy and the poor. This division between the two had grown wider during the Depression, with the wealthy becoming better off and the poor reaching new depths of despair. In an attempt to defy the wealthy, a number of the poor refused their charity and attempted to find food and other commodities by resorting to, among other things, stealing.

The Poor

Seeing the way the wealthy continued to shop at department stores and eat at restaurants, when the poor had to rely on soup from relief centres and clothing from charities, caused anger amongst working-class people. A number of them took to the streets in public demonstrations, protesting to the State and federal governments. Meanwhile many of the wealthy, some of whom were completely unaware that the nation was in a state of depression, came to fear the working class and their demonstrations which often ended in violence and had to be broken up by police.


Working class family in the 1930's.

...........

Hats

The 1930s marked a return to femininity in women's clothing and hat styles. The rebellious, boyish looks of the 1920s flapper era had led many women to bob their hair and wear cloche caps. Women of the '30s grew their hair  into waves and wore stylish hats on top of updos as the finishing touches to dresses and suits that hugged their curves.

Wide Brims

Large hats with wide brims made a return in the '30s, following an era of brimless hats worn very close to the head. These hats were often quite pliable, and women wore them many different ways, including turned up in the front and pinned with a brooch or decoration, such as flowers. In the early '30s these hats had large brims and large crowns that covered much of a woman's hair as cloche caps had done in the '20s. As the '30s progressed, the crowns of these hats grew more shallow, and the large brim sat at an angle higher on the head.

Pert Hats

Before long, smaller hats came into vogue in the '30s, and by the middle of the decade, perky hats were in style. They were similar to European sporting hats in design. They were small and sat high on the head, angling down toward the front. At their highest point they often had an embellishment that stood up, such as flowers or feathers. Sometimes they had ribbons or netting that hung down, covering the back of the head. Women often wore pert hats to show off the glamorous updos of the day.

Turbans and Snoods

Women in the '30s endeavoured to look polished and pulled together at all times. With the constraints of the Great Depression being felt by many, women often could not sport styled hairdos every day. Perhaps partly because of this, turbans came into vogue by the mid '30s. Turbans allowed women to look chic without having to style their hair at all. They simply tucked their hair into the turban. Snoods also caught on in the later 1930s. They were crocheted or made of netting, and women gathered the back of their hair into them then tied them at the top of their heads.

Fedoras

Fedoras caught on and were a huge hat trend for men in the '30s. Men wore them for work and began wearing them at social occasions over more formal hats, such as top hats. Fedoras were soft and pliable but held their shape well. Before long, they caught on with women as well. Greta Garbo was one of the biggest stars of the day, and she was photographed wearing a fedora slouched down, covering one eye, a look which would become her trademark. Women began wearing fedoras in this manner, and smaller versions of fedoras were even created just for women.

.............

Mens fashion

Men's wear had a more casual feel in the 1930s, thanks to the celebratory attitudes of the Roaring '20s following the end of World War I. The younger generation in the '20s had a great interest in dressing well and pushed fashion boundaries. This trend continued into the '30s, but the Great Depression forced many men to be resourceful in creating an impressive wardrobe.

mens suits

Men of the '30s wore suits for work and for all but the most casual social functions, so most men owned more than one. Due to the financial restraints of the Great Depression, however, many men opted to own just a few versatile suits in dark colours as opposed to different suits for morning and evening. Double-breasted jackets with wide lapels were in vogue, as were drape suits from London. These jackets had rounded, draped lapels and were cut narrow at the waist and broader at the shoulders. Trousers were baggy at the top, but tapered at the ankle more than those of the '20s.

Men who could afford to own a variety of suits in the '30s had many trendy patterns at their disposal. "Gangster wear," which was being made popular by gangsters of the day such as Al Capone, featured pinstripe suits and they became all the rage. Men also wore hound's-tooth jackets and a variety of plaid patterns. Later in the decade, full suits with wide stripes on both the jackets and trousers came into vogue. For summer, designers made them from cotton in light colour combinations such as light blue and white stripes. In winter, men often wore suits made of wool and wore silk suits year-round.

Casual wear

Men had begun wearing more casual styles for leisure time in the '20s and that trend continued into the '30s. As the economic climate improved later in the decade, men spent more money and time relaxing. Many men took their cue from the dashing Hollywood stars of the day such as Cary Grant, and wore more casual blazers with open-necked shirts and no tie for relaxed social occasions. They often wore light-coloured, baggy trousers with pleats and cuffs and wore knee-length knickers and knee socks for sports such as golf. Sweater vests came into style and men often wore argyle or tartan vests over button-down shirts.

Cary Grant

...........

The Changing Face Of Fashion - 1920's

Fashion Through The Decades.
1920's

By the early 1920's clothes became more relaxed, women started participating in sports which required a shirt in the style of clothing such as higher hemlines and the elimination of corsets. The 'flapper girl' look became the ideal and long hair with curls was replaced by short bobbed hair cut.

The end of World War 1

The end of world war one came with a complete change in people's attitudes, they began to look forward. Designers were using a more youthful and contemporary approach. The whole world modernised.

...........

During the war, as men went off to fight, women took on jobs formerly filled by men. Women and girls who previously worked as domestic servants took on jobs in munitions factories, performed administrative work, took work as drivers, nurses, and farm workers. They volunteered for organizations like the Red Cross, and joined the military.

Many of the occupations demanded the wearing of uniforms, including trousers. A military look crept into fashion designs as well with military style tunic jackets, belts, and epaulets.

A new image of freedom and self respect led women away from traditional gender roles. They drove cars and demanded the right to vote.

Before the war, Paris led the world of fashion. But due to the privations of war, and loss of communication between the US and Europe, New York emerged as a fashion leader with new designs based on a combination or femininity and practicality.

During World War I, people took to a plainer lifestyle. Women stopped wearing jewelry, and the lavish clothing of the Edwardian period fell by the wayside. As women dressed for new roles, gender dictated dress codes relaxed. Skirts became shorter, as they often do during wartime and colors became sober and muted. 

A woman wearing the new style clothing due to the war.

...........

The hard war years, combined with the devastating effects of the 1918 flu pandemic brought the world to its knees. After Armistice, recovery was difficult. People felt crushed and cynical as they moved into peace time.

A new feeling of freedom mixed with disillusionment combined to create a new kind of culture - a live for today, devil-may-care society that led into the Roaring 20's and the distinctive look, sound, and fashion of the Jazz Age. 

...........

Behavior and attitudes changed completely; everything was less formal, clothes became casual, young people had more freedom, girls smoked in public, cut off there hair, wore make-up and shortened there skirts. The 'Flapper Girl' Fashion was born...

The Flapper Girl

Flapper fashion embraced all things and styles modern.  A fashionable flapper had short sleek hair, a shorter than average shapeless shift dress, a chest as flat as a board, wore make up and applied it in public, smoked with a long cigarette holder, exposed her limbs and epitomised the spirit of a reckless rebel who danced the nights away in the Jazz Age. 

..........

High fashion until the twenties had been for the richer women of society.  But because construction of the flapper's dress was less complicated than earlier fashions, women were much more successful at home dressmaking a flapper dress which was a straight shift.  It was easier to produce up to date plain flapper fashions quickly using flapper fashion Butterick dress patterns. 

The flapper fashion style flourished amid the middle classes. The really rich still continued to wear beautifully embellished silk garments for evening.

Flapper style.

...........

Womens Underwear

A key development in women's undergarments was introduced by a new York debutante named Mary Phelps Jacob. Working under the name Caresse Crosby, Jacobs designed one of the first modern bras. Previously, the breasts had been pushed up by corsets. The new design was soft and boneless with shoulder straps that suspended the breasts from above.

Corsets were not totally abandoned but given greater flexibility for comfort. The Spirella Corset offered a greater range of movement than the old fashioned type and purported to improve posture to benefit overall health. The makers of Spirella Corsets send a representative to your home to measure for a personal fit. 

...........

The new shape

Female clothes became looser and more shapeless in fit. The bust was suppressed, the waist disappeared, the shoulders became broader and hair shorter and shorter.  Narrow boyish hips were preferred.  The silhouette emphasised a flattened chest and womanly curves were eliminated as the line became more simplified.

The slender flat-chested tanned body and face of a 15 year old became the desired silhouette of the bright young things of the 1920s.  Health and beauty clubs helped women refine their silhouettes whilst getting fitter and healthier.

............

Hollywood

Hollywood was an ever widening hub of celebrity, debauchery and decadence in the Roaring Twenties.

It was both a town of wealth and glamor and a seedy place where brothels posed as fake acting schools and sucked in attractive young girls who traveled to California with dreams of stardom and fortune in their eyes.

Very few wanna-be actors and actresses "made" the silver screen, others were plucked off by 9 to 5 jobs, some became prostitutes, others just lived their lives waiting for the call from general casting.

Hollywood Boulevard was lit up, as always. The Hollywoodland sign was lit up to announce right where to go.

...........

Theda Bara & Pola Negri

Pola Negri was a Polish stage and film actress who achieved worldwide fame during the silent and golden eras of Hollywood and European film for her tragedienne and femme fatale roles. She was the first European film star to be invited to Hollywood, and became one of the most popular actresses in American silent film. She also started several important women's fashion trends that are still staples of the women's fashion industry.

Pola Negri

Theda Bara was an American silent film and stage actress. Her femme fatale roles earned her the nickname "The Vamp" (short for vampire). The term "vamp" soon became a popular slang term for a sexually predatory woman. Bara, along with the French film actress Musidora, popularized the vamp persona in the early years of silent film and was soon imitated by rival actresses such as Nita Naldi and Pola Negri.

Theda Bara

..........

Bias Cut

The "bias-cut" is a technique used by designers for cutting clothing to utilize the greater stretch in the bias or diagonal direction of the fabric, thereby causing it to accentuate body lines and curves and drape softly. For example, a full-skirted dress cut on the bias will hang more gracefully or a narrow dress will cling to the figure. Bias-cut garments were an important feature of the designs of Madeleine Vionnet in 1920s and 1930s and bias-cut styles are revived periodically. In the Middle Ages, before the development of knitting, hose were cut on the bias in order to make them fit better. 

A bias cut gown

..........

Cubism

Cubism is an early-20th-century avant-garde art movement pioneered by Georges Braque and Pablo Picasso, joined by Jean Metzinger, Albert Gleizes, Robert Delaunay, Henri Le Fauconnier, Fernand Léger and Juan Gris  that revolutionized European painting and sculpture, and inspired related movements in music, literature and architecture. Cubism has been considered the most influential art movement of the 20th century.
In Cubist artwork, objects are analyzed, broken up and reassembled in an abstracted form—instead of depicting objects from one viewpoint, the artist depicts the subject from a multitude of viewpoints to represent the subject in a greater context.

Coco Chanel used cubist colors and forms in creating women’s fashions, which she dressed with art deco jewelry.

..........

Exhibition of the decorative arts

The museum collection was originally founded in 1905 by members of the Union des Arts Décoratifs. The architect was Gaston Redon. It houses and displays furniture, interior design, altar pieces, religious paintings, objets d'arts, tapestries, wallpaper, ceramics and glassware, plus toys from the Middle Ages to the present day.

The collection is  composed of French furniture, tableware, carpets, and a large number of glass pieces. It includes numerous works in the Art Nouveau and Art Déco styles. The museum's deep holdings range back to 13th-century Europe.

By the 1920s, the effects of art deco style cubist painting were seen in advertising and product designs.

...........

Dance

Ragtime which had been popular during and after the war was suited to the new music tempos and so it flourished. Old favorites like the Waltz and Foxtrot remained popular. Young people added their own variations to traditional dance styles - like toddling to the Foxtrot. Dances like the Tango and Charleston received a huge boost in popularity when featured in movies by stars like Rudolph Valentino and Joan Crawford. Freed from the restrictions of tight corsets and the large puffed sleeves and long skirts that characterized dress during the late Victorian era, a new generation of dancers was swaying, hugging, and grinding to the new rhythms in dances.

While the new dances appealed to the youth they were not so popular with the older, more conservative generation who saw jazz in particular as decadent. This was partly due both to the nightclubing and parties that were the venues for the dancing, and to the style of dance itself.

Young people introduced their own fashion styles and so the "flapper" and "sheik" came into existence. Young women with short bobbed hairstyles, close fitting hats and short skirts were referred to as flappers, and young men with ukeleles, racoon coats and bell-bottom trousers were called "sheiks".

Dancing began to actively involve the upper body for the first time as women began shaking their torsos in a dance called the Shimmy. Young people took to throwing their arms and legs in the air with reckless abandon and hopping or "toddling" every step in the Foxtrot, and soon every college student was doing a new dance which became known as the Toddle.

..........

Menswear

In menswear there were two distinct periods in the 1920s. Throughout the decade, men wore short suit jackets, the old long jackets being used merely for formal occasions. In the early 1920s, men's fashion was characterized by extremely high-waisted jackets, often worn with belts. Lapels on suit jackets were not very wide as they tended to be buttoned up high. This style of jacket seems to have been greatly influenced by the uniforms worn by the military during the First World War. Trousers were relatively narrow and straight and they were worn rather short so that a man's socks often showed. Trousers also began to be worn cuffed at the bottom at this time.

By 1925, wider trousers commonly known as Oxford bags came into fashion, while suit jackets returned to a normal waist and lapels became wider and were often worn peaked. Loose-fitting sleeves without a taper also began to be worn during this period. During the late 1920s, double-breasted vests, often worn with a single-breasted jacket, also became quite fashionable. During the 1920s, men had a variety of sport clothes available to them, including sweaters and short trousers, commonly known as knickers. For formal occasions in the daytime, a morning suit was usually worn. For evening wear men preferred the short tuxedo to the tail coat, which was now seen as rather old-fashioned and snobby.

Men in the usual oxford bags, bow ties and waist length jackets.

Men’s fashion also became less regimented and formal. Men favored short jackets with two or three buttons rather than jackets with long tailcoats as well as pinstriped suits. Casual-wear for men often included knickers, short pants that came to the knee.

Men's hats were usually worn depending on their class, with upper class citizens usually wearing top hats or a homburg hat. Middle class men wore either a fedora, bowler hat or a trilby hat. During the summer months a straw boater was popular for upper class and middle class men. Working-class men wore a standard newsboy cap or a flat cap.

mens hats

..........

Coco Chanel

Chanel set the stage for modern fashion by creating a signature style, a brand awareness, and a social buzz around herself like no one had ever done before.

Chanel saw the needs and desires of women and designed her fashion around what women wanted. . .

Women wanted freedom from the constraints society & fashion had placed upon them. Women wanted beauty without shackles.

Chanel redesigned the young woman's role within society, making them more beautiful while, at the same time, separating them from the hoards of traditional "nobodies".

She came from an impoverished childhood and private Catholic school upbringing to become the archetypal modern woman.

Chanel's designs lent a previously unknown practicality to women's fashion.

Her elegant and versatile fashions were made from durable fabrics usually reserved for men's work clothes. Chanel stripped fashion of excess material, frilly lace, and the constraints of the past.

Rather than using more fabric, Chanel used beads and embroidery to decorate her clothes.

Chanel's "illusion jewelry": beautiful gemstone necklaces and other accessories fleshed out her "simple modern" look.

hanel's "Garconne Look" was quickly adopted in Britain and the U.S. and has broadly been called the "flapper look".

The Flapper look was defined by it's "masculine" influence.

Chanel used male motifs like sailors outfits and mechanic's dungarees as inspirations for her fashions.

..........